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Okay, so I pressurized the pump with the top coat, Corelli polyurethane.

I’ve put 45 pound over-the-air motor which is quite significant in relation to pressure over 1/4 inch width, a 3/8 paint line.

Remember what I said about safety gear? So, what I need now is a pair of overalls. I will need a respirator. I will need a head sock.

So, what you can do is you can use calico socks or these cotton socks. What they’re designed to do is keep overspray off you. Also, appropriate a good fit for the mask itself and stops my beautiful white locks from going blue.

So, as far as the atomization is concerned, the appropriate safety equipment, the safety is on the gun, the pumps ready to go.

I’m going to spray a small section on this. Sam is going to come in and continue spraying.

What I wish to do prior to putting the safety gear on is to ensure that you understand what we’re looking for in relation to transfer efficiency.

So, remember what I said if we selected our tip size in conjunction with the solvent and the product itself, our gain.

In relation to the datasheet, I have pressure over the pump 45-pound, and I have the tip here which is done up by hand. Safety’s off. I can pull the trigger.

So, where do I start? What do I do?

Here’s the big wall, I need to spray. Where on earth would I begin? Would I start at the bottom when I started at the top well?

Basically, what you do is, you’ll cut it in top and bottom. Make sure you get any thin edges, which can be exposed, and you’ll flick a small amount a product along those thin edges, and then you’ll fill it in.

The one thing you remember with polyurethanes too is that there is an induction time. There also is a drying time or a flash time needed for the product to settle for the solvents to be released for the product so you won’t just put fifty microns.

If the spec says fifty microns of topcoat, you wouldn’t put fifty microns straight on there because on a warm day like this the products already relaxed from the heat.

If I spray 50 microns on there, ultimately, you’ll run. So, I put a light coat of blue on leave it to flush, which in this case, would be five to ten minutes then come back. Probably, look for the  additional 40 microns that I’m after to give me a total film bill.

So, would I pull the trigger? Doubt out here. I pull the trigger in there. What do I do?

Basically, what you’ll do is, you’ll get yourself off the surface. There’s no breeze through here now. If there was wind, I’d have to be closer.

So, what I’m looking for now is the establishment of the capacity of my tip. So, with the airless house with nice long curves — no crimps, I can pull the trigger. So, I make sure that I’ve got a good stance.

Now, remember with airless spraying, it’s not just a matter of pulling the trigger and going like this as you see on the renovation rescue jobs.

What I want you to do is, you need to stay in an automated position. What I mean by that is, if I’m spraying down, I have to bend down, turn and come back up again, turn come back up again, and down and up and down, and so forth with half and half overlaps of the tip.

So, just to give an indication of what I’m talking about here, we are blue on white. You can see easily what I’m about to do. So, if I stand out here and pull the trigger, we have a squirt.

Then, we have this atomization which is not a full film formation.

So, I’m too far away. If I turn the pressure up, it’ll probably accommodate it from back here. So, I need to be a little bit closer now. If I go too close, it’ll look it’s running immediately.

But look at the shape here, the shape here indicates to me that the tip is in good repair. If that tip was in poor repair, basically, what I’d have is a sharp radius on each end of the tip. Also, it would run significantly in the middle so that tip is in good repair.

So, remember what you’re looking for an oval shape and a nice fan pattern conducive to what it said as far as the tip identification was concerned.

Now, remember what I said, it was a four was the first digit, so we double that, that’s eight inches. So, then now, we’re looking for us where is that spray pattern in conjunction with eight inches.

Well, basically, what you need to do is come back off the surface and apply the product as you come in and you’ll find that.

So, to give you two indication of that, what I’ll do is I’ll stand back here and bring the gun in.

Where we go now that there is more than enough product? What I’ve done is I’ve covered that white. What you’ve got to be careful of is I put solve it in there; so, the tendency for that to run is quite significant.

Ultimately, it is a good application. I have good very good atomization and good feathering of the tip so when I come back into a half spray pattern overlap, I’ll get the same again and again and again.

What you’ve got to understand is that when I’ve sprayed the material on there, I can tend to flood the surface as I was here. If I was too close, I come up, I flood the surface.

Ultimately, you’ll get runs. That’s not bad. That’s a pretty good film formation but there’s only one problem. As I said, I’m probably putting a little bit too much material on there.

So, how do I appropriate a slightly more material on the surface with that particular tip? Well, the one thing I can do is, I can turn the pressure up a little bit more because what I’ve done is I’ve started middle of the range 45 psi; so, if I turn this airless pump up to 50 by alternating the regulator — bringing me up to 50 now.

What it does is, it gives me slightly more pressure but also gives me as the operator the opportunities to get off the substrate not cop the overspray and apply it from a distance that I can see.

What’s going on? So again, I pull the trigger and the important thing to remember when you’re airless spraying is to start moving before you open the trigger.

Now, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with going up and letting the trigger go. Release and start again for a novice or somebody that hasn’t done this a lot. That’s what I suggest you do. So, let’s pull the trigger and have a look at what the outcome is now with slightly more pressure.

So now, I have better film formation. I have a good light sparse. Cody and I have enough product on there to eliminate runs.

What I’ll do now is, I’ll leave that for ten minutes come back and hit that up again to achieve my film thickness just on the film thickness side of things because I’m looking for a thickness I’ll need to utilize what we call a wet film comb it’s segmented increments to enable me to identify how much wet film thickness either This don’t achieve Don the surface so in this instance because it’s a topcoat. What it’s going to be is inherently thin. So, primarily, I’ll be in the smaller increments from 25 microns up to 250.

Do you think I’d have 250 on there? Not a chance!

What I would have ultimately is about 45 microns and that’s exactly what we’ve got. So, we follow that through until we see there’s no longer a wet edge of the comb and that indicates to us how much film we’ve got on there. So, we know that where we are in relation to our application.

It’s imperative you know how much paint you’re putting on and there’s absolutely nothing wrong within the job of seeing these wet film comb marks as you go through because that to the anybody else, the inspector gives them an indication that yes he has been keeping a check on his application.

So, to give you an indication now, how you would spray that wall? Sam will come in for us now and spray this section of wall and follow through with an even film application.