One thing I’ve all make mention of, is that now that I finished with the compressor, I need to take the wedges from the rear wheels fore and aft.
I also need to relieve the handbrake engaged.
I can now raise the drawbar with the jockey wheel I can also make sure that the coupling is upright This particular tag here is for reversing. So, it’s been reversed into position.
So, what I’ll do now is lift this tag that’ll allow the shaft to come back and operate these brakes here which are hydraulic.
Also, by removing the retaining tag when I go forward now, it will only be dragged forward. So this becomes null and void for towing operation.
Make sure that this coupling here is lubricated.
Make sure that the dog, when you pull, lift it up and down these periodic greasing.
Also, you can use the same linchpins you used in these particular couplings. You can also use them to hold that dog in place.
So, when this is coupled to a drawbar which is 50 millimeters, this retainer here can be kept into place or position by this particular pin. So, you see it can’t come off the drawbar. Safety first.
These particular chains here also maintained the harness of this particular unit to the vehicle. They’ll always have two chains. The heavier equipment. They will also have the ability to be able to fasten these particular chains to the vehicle as well.
Importantly, remember there’s nothing wrong with putting a bit of anti-seize on here. I wouldn’t use oil because the oil or grease will make them sticky with dust.
But a bit of anti-seize or even a bit of graphite dust is good on these.
The kits mean good repair. so the pins always go back in. Don’t do them up with a shifter or a spanner because they can become quite difficult to undo.
So, remember that when you harness this to a vehicle, these are mandatory. They must go on. This tag here is only for reversing.
Make sure that the unit does have adequate brake fluid, which it has, so that the functionality of the hydraulic brakes is operational. Adequate fluid.
This particular one here is the secondary park brake. So, to engage the secondary park brake, I push it forward until it becomes difficult to push any further or depress that pistons and engaged that dog clip or claw clip. So, what happens is by engaging that, that’s holding the hydraulic brakes on in conjunction with this particular one as well.
So, before I decide to move the vehicle or move this particular trailer away from its position, of course, what I’ll do is I’ll couple it to the tow vehicle.
Make sure to engage this pin and the dog comes in. The dog comes in behind and pinches on the ball.
These chains are attached appropriately to the tow vehicle.
Only then, will you disengage these particular brakes — this one on this one and ensure that you didn’t release the torque off the stem on the jockey wheel and then your quick-release is pulled out and the jockey wheel is pulled up out of harm’s way so that doesn’t get damaged or broken.
So, if you follow all those procedures and of course, this particular plug which accommodates lights on the trailer; once you plug this in, it’s a good idea to then go to the rear of the trailer to ensure that all brake lights, park lights indicators are working. If they’re not, check to see that the pins clean and clear.
Re-engage the pin to ensure that it is all the way home and there’s a keeper that comes in behind that to hold it in position.
So, lights must work. Brakes must work. All the coupling units available to you must be engaged.
As I say, only then, we release the jockey wheel once the weight is taken off this particular trailer drawbar by lowering the jockey wheel and letting the weight come on to the tow vehicle.
Then you could disengage your air brakes, park brake, jockey wheel up out of the way. So, hopefully, that gives you a good functional run-through of how to appropriate your compressor.